Chemical Colourants in Cosmetics
Chemical Dyes have found a wide variety of uses in the cosmetic industry. Be it the hair dyes, lipsticks, creams, or shampoo everywhere there is wide use of questionable dyes.
Several thousand dyes and pigments,(both organic and inorganic compounds) are used as colorants in consumer products but not all colorants have been classified as safe for human beings or as environmentally friendly. Several colorants have indeed been considered as mutagenic - a mutagen (Latin, literally origin of change) is a physical or chemical agent that changes the genetic material (usually DNA) of an organism and thus increases the frequency of mutations above the natural background level. As many mutations cause cancer, mutagens are typically also carcinogens.
Many dyes are also considered Carcinogenic (cancer forming) or as a skin irritants-causing allergic reactions and dermatitis. Until today 29 pigments used in cosmetics are inorganic and therefore pose a risk to upholding safe, healthy skincare and make-up. In one of the most well known, up market cosmetic companies high concentrations of lead have been found in their lipsticks. (Read about lead poisoning)
The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics found that a significant proportion of lipstick manufactured in the United States and used by millions of American women contains surprisingly high levels of lead. According to new product tests, 61 percent of brand-name lipsticks tested contained detectable levels of lead, which can be toxic if ingested. (read article). This is also true of many European cosmetic companies.
Lipstick tainted with lead, mascara that contains mercury, a hair-straightening treatment that slicks your tresses with protein...and formaldehyde? As three recent controversies show, sometimes the world of beauty can be downright ugly.
Take the lipstick debate. Last fall, a study gave women reason to worry about their war paint: The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics tested 33 lipsticks for lead, from Burt's Bees Lip Shimmer to L'Oreal Colour Riche. They found that 61 percent of the lipsticks tested contained a detectable amount of the contaminant. In fact, several lipsticks exceeded the Food and Drug Administration's lead limit for candy.!! (The study used candy as a benchmark not only because women ingest both candy and lipstick -- albeit in vastly different amounts -- but also because the FDA does not set lead standards for lipstick.)
Even a minuscule amount of lead is a big problem, says Campaign for Safe Cosmetics spokeswoman Stacy Malkan. "What the companies will often say is, 'There's a little toxin in one product and you can't say it causes harm,' " she says. “But none of us uses just one product." Lead is a neurotoxin that accumulates in the body over time, which is why tiny amounts ingested regularly (or in the case of lipstick, multiple times per day) could be hazardous.
Right now, concerned lipstick lovers don't have a lot of options. "The only way to find out if your lipstick has lead is to send it to a lab and pay $150," Malkan says. "I think that's ridiculous, to expect consumers to do that."
It's considerably easier to find out if your mascara contains mercury. Traditionally added as a preservative, the substance is rare in cosmetics these days. You may see it listed as "thimerosal," a mercury-based compound.
In eye-area cosmetics, the FDA allows mercury if no other effective preservative is available. The concentration can be up to 65 parts per million. That may not sound like much, but the presence of mercury in any amount worries some people and it should. This month, Minnesota imposed a ban on many products containing the substance, including thermostats, medical devices and, yes, mascara.
"It's a potent neurotoxin that can cause brain damage in developing foetuses," Malkan says. "Many women get mercury from fish and other sources. We don't need any more."
Bailey says that the FDA uses a voluntary reporting program for cosmetics ingredients; the program has no current registrations that report mercury being used in the eye area, he says. "We certainly can't count on a voluntary reporting program," Malkan says. "We need a real reporting system." To see whether any products you use contain mercury or other potentially hazardous ingredients, she recommends the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Web site (http://www.cosmeticdatabase.com), which lists information on more than 27,000 cosmetics and personal-care products. That may seem like a high number, but it's a small fraction of what's on the market, Malkan says.
The Skin Deep site is a useful resource: It gives each product a 1-to-10 "hazard score" and offers detailed information on its ingredients. But the site analyzes only over-the-counter products. Salon treatments are not examined -- and for controversial ones such as the Brazilian Keratin treatment, that's unfortunate. The BKT, as its known, is a hair-straightening process that has smitten women in search of silky, frizz-free tresses. It also contains formaldehyde, a carcinogen
Did you know?
- The FDA grants approval to some lead-containing colorants used in most lipsticks.
- Mercury compounds are readily absorbed through the skin on topical application and tend to accumulate in the body. They may cause allergic reactions, skin irritation, or neurotoxic manifestations. They are used in some eye products.
- It is a medically recognized fact that our body absorbs significant amounts of what we put on our skin. Yet, one third of all personal care products contain one or more ingredients classified as possible human carcinogens. Women are unknowingly exposing themselves to some 100 chemicals every morning when applying make up and skincare. In fact, many lipsticks, creams, eye shadows, foundations, nail polish and perfumes have been regularly found to contain toxic chemicals known to cause infertility and cancer.
- Coal tar: used as an artificial colouring.
Found in blushers, eyeliners and mascaras.
In sensitive people it can trigger nausea, headaches, mood swings and has produced cancer in animal experiments.
- Para-phenylenediamine (PPD):
used in dark hair dyes and some temporary tattoos are linked to a higher incidence of bladder cancer, scalp conditions and skin allergies.
The issue, of course, is that it's hard to know. Beauty products and treatments don't have to get FDA approval before hitting store shelves; the FDA mandates such approval only for colour additives in cosmetics. Sure, most people probably would agree that you shouldn't eat your lipstick or put mascara on a baby. But beyond that, the definition of "dangerous" comes down to different people's ideas about the effects of accumulated toxins. How much is too much? If experts can't agree, consumers can't be confident either. John Bailey, chief scientist for the Personal Care Products Council,
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